The fifth-generation Camaro SS isn’t supposed to act like the 1LE. It’s supposed to plow into corners when pressed hard. Its helm should feel as artificial as AstroTurf. It’s supposed to pivot, accelerate, and grip like the 4000-pound car it is. Not anymore. Those gripes have been largely addressed by diligent GM engineers keen on honing their ponycar into a Ford Mustang Boss 302-killer.

The Tremec TR6060-MM6 short-throw six-speed manual employs a sportier 3.91:1 final drive rather than the normal 3.45:1. Like in the ZL1, crisp shifts are had row after row, thanks to an air-to-liquid cooling system. There are ZL1 wheel bearings, toe links, and shock mounts, too. Monotube shocks replace the SS’ more civilized twin-tubes. The stabilizer bars thicken to 27mm front, 28mm rear, and sturdier rear axle half-shafts cope with the newfound grip. A new front strut tower brace keeps everything tight, and a higher capacity fuel pump ensures the LS3 heart gets all the liquid strength it needs during high-G load situations.

To get this very enticing Camaro, all it takes is an extra $3500 on top of the 1SS or 2SS’ asking price. That additional dough brings a solid list of performance and aesthetic mods to the SS’ repertoire. Exterior treatments include a ZL1-inspired (a lot of the 1LE package takes from the ZL1 parts/idea bin) and downforce-inducing front splitter and rear trunk spoiler, wrapped matte black hood and radio antenna, and 20-inch forged aluminum wheels covered in gummy 285/35R-20 Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar G:2 rubber. The 426-horse, 6.2-liter V-8 is left alone, but it does get a glorious two-stage exhaust system lifted from its ‘roid ragin’ 580-horse brother. Forget WOT blasts (though they are AH-MAY-ZING) — startups are the bee’s knees, and will likely set off some car alarms. Inside, you’ll find a flat-bottom steering wheel wrapped in a suede-like material and an easy to navigate MyLink media system with a touch screen.

You’d think that with a suspension like this, the 1LE would ride as stiff as a San Francisco cable car. Yes, more of what’s going on below gets transmitted to your hindquarters, but it’s not that jarring or punishing. And mind you, I say this after driving it nearly 1500 miles up and down the California coast over the course of a week.

Throw the Camaro into a corner and the new variable electric power steering returns a weighty and progressive feel. Body roll is kept to a minimum, and the front end grabs securely. Its Brembos kill forward momentum pedal stab after pedal stab, and the rowdy 6.2-liter smoothly doles its 420 lb-ft to the steamroller Goodyears. Associate road test editor Carlos Lago noted that understeer comes into play mid-corner, but stability is there and “the throttle makes it easy to modulate the rear end and induce oversteer.” It’s an orchestration of athleticism I’ve never experienced in any fifth-gen Camaro.

It may not have the ZL1′s fancy shocks; it’s nowhere close to corralling 600 force-fed horses under a bulging hood; and it’s not the quickest in a straight line; but the 1LE is a well-balanced, track-read

Other Links:

CarPart4U offers good quality aftermarket auto parts and brand new fog lights for Chevrolet vehicle at great prices.

What color is the liquid under the car? Yellowish green, blue or orange colors can show an overheated engine or an antifreeze leak. You could have a leaky radiator or a water pump in need of repair. If this is the problem, you need to get to a repair shop immediately.

A dark brown or black oily fluid can show that the engine is leaking oil. A bad seal or gasket could be the cause of the leak. The repair for this problem can be exorbitant, so you will want to seek out a reputable mechanic right away.

Are there any stains or drops of fluid under your vehicle? There may be no problem whatsoever, however you do want to check for wet spots, as this could be a symptom of a serious problem.

A red oily looking spot shows a transmission or power steering fluid leak. Another reason to see your car doctor!

Sometimes the liquid is clear, and this is usually normal condensation from your vehicle’s air conditioner. There is no need for concern.

If you see light smoke coming from a wheel – it could be a stuck brake. Call a tow truck. Smoke coming from any part of the vehicle shows a need for repair. You may find some potential problems by taking a look at your car.

Other Links

Take a visit at CarPart4U, where you can buy various aftermarket car parts and car fog lights for different car makes at competitive low prices.

Keep air filters clean. Clogged air filters lower fuel consumption as much as 10%. Faulty oxygen sensors lower fuel consumption by as much as 40 percent. Make sure the automatic choke is working properly. Change the oil regularly as recommended by your cars manual.

Remove snow tires as soon as possible in the spring and replace them with radial tires to gain a 4 percent gas efficiency. Remove roof and ski racks if not using them regularly. The wind drag caused by these additions reduce fuel efficiency by 5 percent. Remove unnecessary items from the car and trunk. For every 100 pounds the car eats up 0.5 percent more gas.

For pickup owners remove the tailgate or put it down if not using it. Or replace it with the net-type of gate or use a bed cover. Tailgates cause a drag effect reducing gas mileage by as much as 15 percent.

When driving in muddy conditions clean the car often. Mud under the bumpers and wheel wells add on unnecessary weight.

And lastly, one popular myth today is to pour acetone, or nail polish remover which is mostly acetone, into the gas tank. In tests performed on the gas lines, the thickness of the fuel line went from 3/8 to 1/32 in just 3 days. Acetone, if spilled, will also eat the paint and finish on your vehicle.

Other Links

Get good quality car parts and fog lights at CarPart4U.

•Engine coolant – — CAUTION — Never open your radiator cap when the engine is hot ! The pressure in the system can send hot coolant splashing out on to you. Most cars have an overflow bottle, which will have level markings. Keep the coolant between these markings. If you have to open the radiator, make sure the engine is cold.

•Transmission fluid – If you have an automatic transmission then you will have a dipstick to check the fluid level. It is most commonly found towards the back of the engine compartment or towards the passenger side. You should find out how to check the fluid by looking at the owner’s manual or on the dipstick itself. Most cars have to be running with the transmission in park or neutral. Also the transmission should be warmed up to give a true reading. Make sure the car has been driven for a short distance to make sure everything is up to operating temperature. Checking the level is just like checking your oil, wipe off dipstick, replace, pull out again and check level. If you have a manual transmission there is no dipstick and to check the fluid level you must crawl under the car and remove a fill plug. I would have your mechanic check this for you once a year if you do not feel comfortable doing this.

•Power steering fluid – Your car uses oil to assist in steering the car. The fluid is usually checked at the pump, but can be away from the pump in a separate reservoir. Like the transmission, this fluid should also be checked when up to operating temperature. Most commonly the level is measured by a small dipstick attached to the cap of the reservoir.

•Brake fluid – On most newer cars you can check brake fluid level without removing the cap on the master cylinder. There will be level markings on the side of the plastic reservoir. If you have to remove the cover to check the fluid level, be careful not to spill any fluid on the surrounding paint. Brake fluid makes a nice paint remover.

•Windshield washer fluid – That’s the magic blue liquid that squirts out of your hood. Most reservoirs have the level marked on the side but some newer cars have them buried underneath everything so you can’t see. Just fill to the top, there is no harm in overfilling.

Other Links

fog lights

Find good quality fog lights for major car brands, makes and models at CarPart4U.

aftermarket car parts

CarPart4U is the reliable aftermarket car parts store, where you can buy good car parts at great prices.

Step 1:

Step 2: First remove the hubcap or wheel cover. The lug wrench often has a flat end, which you can use to pry off the cover. If not, a screwdriver will work just fine. Before you jack the car up you will want to break loose the lug nuts. The weight of the car will keep the wheel from spinning and allow you to apply more force to the nuts. You do not want to completely remove the lug nuts yet…. just break them loose. Once the lug nut begins to move, STOP and move onto the next one. I often carry a small pipe, which will fit over the lug wrench. This pipe can provide additional leverage and allow you to get those stubborn lug nuts off. Always remember righty tighty, lefty loosy. Turn the lug nuts left or counter clockwise to loosen.

Step 3: Now it’s time to jack up the car. Make sure you know where the manufacturer has placed jacking points by reading the owners manual or the instructions near or on the jack. Most cars will have a reinforced lip where the jack can be placed. If you can not locate this, look for a solid portion of the frame to jack on. Make sure the jack is on firm level ground and start jacking. Take it slowly and only go as far as you need to get the wheel off. The wheel is off the ground and it’s time to remove the lug nuts. Use the wrench or your fingers to remove the nuts. Slowly take the wheel off and set it to the side. Get the new wheel and put it on the car. Tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can without the wheel spinning. Don’t worry about getting the nuts super tight, as you will do the final tightening when the car is off of the jack.

Step 4: Let the car down off of the jack and get your lug wrench. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern if there are five nuts. Start with one lug nut and skip the next one until they are all tight. If you have 4 nuts, just tighten the opposite nut from where you started and then the remaining two in any order. Replace your wheel cover or hubcap and clean up the jack, lug wrench and blown tire. If your spare tire had air in it, you should be able to continue your journey.

Other Links

aftermarket car parts

Find good quality aftermarket car parts and car fog lights at great prices on CarPart4U.

Fuel efficiency varies widely from one car to the next. Obviously you can check the EPA rating for city/highway MPG on the window sticker, although most of us know the average car never reaches those numbers.

Under normal driving conditions, smaller engines offer better fuel efficiency and economy than larger ones. All other things being equal, the larger engine and the more cylinders it has, the more fuel it consumes. Additionally, cars with smaller engines usually cost less and gas costs are lower because you don’t need higher octane gas. That doesn’t mean a bigger engine is never a good choice. In some cases, a larger, more powerful engine may provide the greater fuel efficiency. If you use your vehicle for work or often tow heavy loads, a smaller engine could burn more fuel if it has to work too hard and function beyond its most fuel-efficient range.

Your choice of transmission can also affect the fuel efficiency of the vehicle. Generally, a car with manual transmission is a more fuel-efficient car than one with automatic-assuming you shift properly. And a manual with overdrive, tachometer or shift indicator is the biggest fuel saver, saving up to 10% on fuel costs. If you do buy an automatic, which makes more sense for larger cars, the more gears the better.

You can also check consumer guides, car magazines and Web sites, Web site forums or ask friends, relatives and co-workers which vehicles they recommend as fuel-efficient cars. Don’t buy more car than you need, as larger vehicles generally have bigger engines that are less fuel-efficient. Find the most fuel-efficient car in the size group you’re interested in, whether a two-seater, compact, mid-sized, SUV or pickup truck. There are several online sites where you can compare fuel consumption ratings of any car. You can also buy good aftermarket car parts or car fog lights at reliable car parts store – CarPart4U.

If you know the best price of your desired car, it will give a solid idea of the lowest price currently available. With this information in mind, you may be satisfied even if the final negotiated number is a few hundred dollars higher than the best new car price.

Here are some useful tips that you need to know before you by a new car. Don’t buy the car for its sale price. Always test-drive the new vehicle and make sure you’ll enjoy it. Don’t buy or lease the car for its “low monthly payment”. Pay more attention to the “selling price” & “finance rate”. Always read everything you sign at the time of the purchase. Some fine prints are just as important as the numbers.

Step by Step To Buy A New Car

1. Search and select your desired new car from our Latest New Car Deals, Auto Bargains by Make, or using the Advanced Search option. You’ll then be able to see colors, full specs, and dealer’s invoice cost for the selected vehicle.

2. Get Dealer’s Invoice Cost for the new car from one of the trusted online sources. (Such as Yahoo! Autos -> follow the link to the right to “Build Your Car”.

3. Configure the desired make & model by selecting available options; the Invoice & MSRP for each option is quoted to the right. As you make decisions, the tool keeps track of your choices so you always see the “total invoice price and MSRP” for your new car.

4. Now you can easily calculate the target new car price by using the following formula:

Dealer’s Invoice $ +/- AutosBargain.com Deal + Documentation Fees + Sales Tax + DMV & Government Fees = Target (out-of-door) Price

5. Finally, select the make & model to see which local dealership will offer the best deal for your new car.

Other Links

If you want to replacement new car parts, auto parts or fog lights for your car, you can take a visit to CarPart4U.

Three aspects of the wheels are relevant to the suspension design: wheel offset, aspect ratio, and tire width. All these should be considered in choosing the best replacement wheels for your vehicle.

Offset refers to the distance from the very center of the wheel to the mounting surface of the wheel disc at the hub. Wheel offset can be positive, negative or zero. A “0″ offset means that the mounting surface of the wheel is in the center of the wheel. This measurement is very important in positioning the tire. This also provides for adequate dual spacing.

Aspect ratio is the ratio between the width of the tire and the height of its side wall. A tire specified as “205/60/15″ for example, has a width of 205mm and 60% aspect ratio. The “15″ refers to the size of the wheel to which it is fitted. You shouldn’t buy wheels or tires with lower aspect ratio than what is required because this will wear them out easily as ride quality will deteriorate. However, this could also result to more precision in turning.

You might be thinking of getting wider wheels to give your car a racing car look. Better think about this again. While is it true that wider wheels and tires can give your car a chunk of gutsy looks, they can also ruin your driving satisfaction. This is because the weight of the vehicle would not be evenly spread over the wheel and tire width. Resistance is also increased, thus you wheels and tires could wear out fast.

In buying replacement wheels for your car, there are important things you need to know, especially if you are new to driving. You cannot just choose any kind of wheel in lieu of the original wheel of your car. There are different wheel specifications for every kind of vehicle and car model since suspension design varies from one vehicle to another. Take note that the wheels work hand in hand with the suspension system whose job is to keep the tires in tight contact with the road as the vehicle turns, brakes or is driven down the road without sacrificing comfort of the passengers.

Aside from contributing to ride quality and handling abilities, the wheels can also make the car look better and a lot sportier. People have always been concerned with how their vehicles should look and thus they replace or customize some of the parts to make it different from the rest on the road. The wheels are among those that are often replaced to achieve their desired appearance. Accessories are also added to the wheels, such as the hub caps and wheels covers. These auto accessories are designed to match the user’s various driving needs and moods.

Other Links

Wheel Accessories Choose good quality wheel accessories and more car parts at reliable car parts store – CarPart4U.

Car Parts CarPart4U offers good quality car parts for different car makes and models at competitive prices.

Fuel filter: Clean fuel is critical to engine life and performance. Fuel injectors have tiny openings, which clog easily so filtering the fuel is the only way to prevent this. Filters can be before or after the fuel pump, sometimes both.

Fuel pump: On newer cars the fuel pump is usually installed in the fuel tank. Older cars have the fuel pump attached to the engine or on the frame rail between the tank and the engine. If the pump is in the tank or on the frame rail then it is electric and is run by your cars battery. Fuel pumps mounted to the engine use the motion of the engine to pump the fuel.

Fuel injectors: Most domestic cars after 1986 and earlier foreign cars came from the factory with fuel injection. Instead of a carburetor to mix the fuel and air, a computer controls when the fuel injectors open to let fuel into the engine. This has resulted in lower emissions and better fuel economy. The fuel injector is basically a tiny electric valve, which opens and closes with an electric signal. In the picture below you can see the injectors towards the outer part of the intake. By injecting the fuel close to the cylinder head the fuel stays atomized ( in tiny particles ) so it will burn better when ignited by the spark plug.

Fuel tank: Basically a holding tank for your fuel. When you fill up at a gas station the gas travels down the filler tube and into the tank. In the tank there is a sending unit, which tells the gas gauge how much gas is in the tank.

Carburetors: A carburetor takes the fuel and mixes it with air without computer intervention. While simple in operation, they tend to need frequent tuning and rebuilding. This is why most newer cars have done away with carburetors in favor of fuel injection.

I would say the most common problem is a clogged fuel filter. Make sure you follow your manufacturers recommendations as to when you should change the fuel filter. This information should be in your owner’s manual. Symptoms include sputtering at high speeds or engine not starting at all. Always check the ignition system first, if that’s ok then the next suspect is the fuel filter.

Next most common problem is the fuel pump failing. Most modern electric fuel pumps can be heard when you turn the key on. If you don’t hear the pump running and your car will not start, it could be your fuel pump. The first thing a mechanic will check is the relay, which sends power to the pump. If this is operating correctly then the pump will have to be replaced.

Finally, I’ll take about the dirty injectors. While the fuel filter does a good job of filtering the fuel, it’s not perfect. Over time deposits and tiny particles lodge themselves in the injectors. This can clog and injector and prevent it from delivering the fuel the engine needs. It can also cause an injector to stick open and send too much fuel into the engine. A regular addition of fuel system cleaner like STP Injector Cleaner, or Techtron fuel system cleaner can help keep your injectors clean. Most gas stations, department stores and all automotive parts stores will have a good cleaner available. Add it to your empty tank right before you fill up and it will clean as you drive. I recommend doing this every 3 months to keep your injectors performing like new.

Other Links

car parts

car engine parts

Find car engine parts and car parts for various car makes and models at carpart4u.com.

Your coolant system should be flushed every two years and the anti freeze replaced as well. The chemicals in anti freeze begin to lose their effectiveness and rust and grime can build up in your engine and radiator. This will clog up your engine’s cooling system and cause your engine to overheat. The good news is very little mechanical skills are needed to flush your system and keep your car running for the years to come. Just follow these simple steps:

1. First of all make sure your car engine has not been running and it is cool. This is very important. A radiator can get very hot and possibly burn you. With the engine cool, open the radiator cap and relieve any pressure.

2. Next locate the drain valve on the radiator to drain it. It should be located on the bottom of the radiator. Be sure to drain the fluid into a container and not the ground. Once you have drained it, close the drain valve.

3. Now you are ready to install a back flush kit. This kit is inexpensive and can easily be purchased at your local auto parts store. Follow the instructions on the back on the kit. Basically, you have to cut the heater inlet hose going to the top of the engine. This is where you install the T section provided in the kit into the line. Slip both ends of the hose onto this fitting and tighten the clamps provided in the kit. Go ahead and connect your garden hose to this fitting.

4. Now place the diverter that came in the kit into the opening on the top of the radiator. This is where the water and coolant will pour out from when you start to flush the system. A hose or tube will be helpful to direct the run off into a bucket.

5. Now it is time to start the engine, turn the heater on high and turn on the garden hose. Coolant is now circulating through the engine and coming out through the diverter on the top of the radiator. Continue this process until clean water begins to come out the top. This should only take a few minutes.

6. Turn off the engine and garden hose. Now drain the radiator again into a bucket and close the drain valve when you are done.

7. Now it is time to add the new anti freeze. Pour the entire contents of the anti freeze bottle into the empty radiator and fill it until coolant pours out of the neck. Screw back on the radiator cap and you are done. Make sure you have also screwed back on the provided cap onto the T fitting you installed.

8. Take your car for a test drive around the block and make sure everything is ok.

Now you have a back flush fitting installed for the next time you need to flush your radiator and it will be a lot quicker. You will thank yourself the next time you pass that unlucky person on the side of the road with the ominous steam cloud pouring from the hood.

Other Links

car lights & lighting

Do you want to change new fog lights for your BMW? Check CarPart4U and buy quality BMW car parts on our car parts site.